Once set up and turned on you can control the pan and tilt of the camera or even combine these movements. With this shoot I was only using the gimbal for stable handheld angles and basic pan/tilt movements. I was using a 50mm lens at f/1.8 which meant that I had a very shallow and cinematic depth of field and allowed me to use lower ISOs (100-400) to reduce noise. However the wide aperture meant that the focus was very fine and that I couldn't rely on autofocus - which I would've preferred as it means I can operate the gimbal with 2 hands. My shutter speed was at around 1/200s, higher than I would've liked, as my ideal was at double the framerate (1/60s.) However 1/200s was needed as I don't have an ND filter for this 50mm lens. When shooting the scenes higher up on the moors (walking, time-lapses and statics,) I had the DSLR, with the 50mm lens on a travel tripod. This tripod was stable for most of the scenes until we got higher up where the wind started to affect it, but I overcame this issue by ways I mentioned in the health and safety portion of this diary.
I used a higher F-stop as the depth of field wasn't needed, keeping it at f/5.6 predominantly, which allowed for the slower shutter speed (keeping ISO at 100-400 still.) For a couple of the SFX scenes I had the aperture at f/11 because I needed a higher amount of the scene in focus (compensated with higher ISO/lower SS.) Manual focus was used for this scene as all of the shots were stable and therefore I wanted a reliable focus. For this whole shoot day I kept the white balance as auto and monitored it carefully because this seemed to be reliable when I was shooting and meant I could continue shooting with the light we had instead of stopping and changing the WB.
On this shoot I filmed all of the scenes which were set in the actor's house besides one (didn't have the necessary equipment.) This included many tripod shots featuring; a chess board from a bird's eye view, jump cuts around the living room, the actor playing games at the table and entering the house. Alongside these stationary scenes I also used a monopod to get some moving shots of; chess pieces, a lighter, entering the house from outside, the kitchen and a couple more.
For the scene where I was shooting the actor on his phone I used a retro 135mm M42 lens. The M42 mount was typically found in cameras around the time of the cold war and the lenses I used gave a beautiful bokeh and soft clarity to add the nostalgic feel. When using this 135mm f/2.8 lens I had to stand at quite a far distance from the subject and also use a M42 to EF mount adapter to make the lens useable on my DSLR. I didn't use the light panel for this shot and could get away with a higher shutterspeed (1/50s) and lower ISO: 1600 due to the wider aperture.
The next set-up was used for a variety of shots and had to remain in exactly the same position it was mounted in otherwise the intended effect wouldn't work. I used exactly the same camera set-up as the first scene, using the heavy tripod and the 18mm lens (with fish-eye) as I needed a very wide shot. This time I didn't use the light panel as I decided the shot fit the mood better without it, paired with a higher shutterspeed (1/60s) and ISO:1600. The only lighting source was the centrally composed reading lamp in shot. Another set-up which I used to acquire moving shots had the camera mounted on the monopod with the 18mm lens and the same settings as the previous scene. When I was shooting the ECU shot of the chess pieces whilst moving the camera backwards I had attached a macro filter to the lens to get that soft and extremely shallow depth of field. The final and most difficult set-up I created from this shoot was to shoot the chess board from a birds-eye angle. As I don't have a crane or any special equipment designed to get this type of shot with my camera I had to use my tripod, the table and a chair to make a make-shift crane. This meant having two tripod legs which were stable on the table and one which stretched all the way to the floor. As there was clearly an imbalance in weight I used a chair and some weights to mount the longer leg to the ground. Creating a rigid set-up. So that I could actually see the shot I rotated the flip out LCD screen. The LED panel was creating many light hotspots on the table and chess board which I eradicated by putting some black fabric under the board, diffusing the light, and moving the light around. (1/30s, f/3.5, ISO: 800)
I made sure to use widely framed, dark shots to adhere to genre conventions. As well as some strange imagery which will be seen in the editing process (shots collected in this shoot.)
I think this location was both successful and appropriate and I am fairly pleased with how the shots turned out. The lighting was maybe a bit too dark however I can make small colour and light adjustments in editing without having too large of an impact on the quality of the footage.
When shooting in the rain snow I used the same DSLR and lens with similar settings however I shot without the tripod - using a waterproof cover to protect my gear from water damage. This meant as there was no neck strap or tripod to secure the camera and protect it from falling I had to hold it very firmly and carefully, putting in my bag when I wasn't using it. INSERT PICTURE. The third and final set-up which I used mainly when shooting in Newquay, Cornwall was also a handheld set-up, although I used a strap to avoid dropping the camera in the high winds. Whilst still using the DSLR (750d), I used a 50mm f/1.8 lens. This tighter focal length meant that any camera movement was more noticeable which is why you can see some of the footage is quite unstable. The wider aperture meant a shallower depth of field but also that more light was being let into the censor. To combat this I increased the shutterspeed (1/800s) and decreased the ISO (100.) Auto white balance throughout except from when shooting in the snow (custom) because it tends to be reliable and accurate with my DSLR, I was monitoring it anyway in case it changed.